Playing The Long Game

Playing the Long Game | Styling evening looks for day | MODE+MAISON

Styled by Grace Coddington and shot by Craig McDean, this ‘I’m With The Band’ story for US Vogue appears in the magazine’s March 2016 issue.

Playing The Long Game | Styling evening looks for day | MODE+MAISON

I’ve blogged before about my love of long dresses being styled out of context (here and here), and the skirts and gowns in this shoot look great ‘dressed down’ with boots and big knits.

Playing The Long Game | Styling evening looks for day | MODE+MAISON

In this age of fashion freedom, it would be nice to see longer styles being worn more often, and not just relegated to red-carpet dressing.  Obviously, tulle and sequins may not quite cut it at the supermarket, but as the owner of one of Ann Demeulemeester’s simple long, languid styles, in black of course, I can vouch for playing the long game.

Playing The Long Games | Styling evening looks for day | MODE+MAISON

See more images from the shoot here

Image Credits: Visual Optimism

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Viktor & Rolf’s Amsterdam Residence

Viktor & Rolf's Amsterdam Residence | MODE+MAISON

This 17th-century former mayor’s residence, overlooking Herengracht (Lords’ Canal) in Amsterdam, is home to haute couture house Viktor & Rolf.

Viktor & Rolf's Amsterdam Residence | MODE+MAISON

It took several years for the Dutch design duo, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, and their staff to make the imposing space their own, and it now provides the perfect setting for the creation of the label’s high-concept clothing.

Viktor & Rolf's Amsterdam Residence | MODE+MAISON

Period details have been respectfully retained, and antique furniture sits side by side with  more modern pieces.

Viktor & Rolf's Amsterdam Residence | MODE+MAISON

And the outside space, a sculpted ornamental garden, is just as stunning.  This is the view from the meeting room…

Viktor & Rolf's Amsterdam Residence | MODE+MAISON

What a beautiful place to work!

See more images here

Image Credits: Vogue Living

The Hole Story

The Hole Story | Fashion's fascination with the fishnet | MODE+MAISON

I’ve long been a fan of the fishnet.  Way back when, when I was climbing the corporate ladder (no pun intended), I could often be seen sporting a pair, injecting a little bit of subversive style into conservative City dressing.   And before sheers returned to the fashion fold, they would be my go to legwear when wearing an LBD.

But whatever trends dictate, this holey hosiery, in its various guises, is never far from the glare of fashion’s spotlight. Most of the models traversing Proenza Schouler’s autumn/winter 2015/16 catwalk were sporting a pair of these eye-catching tights…

Proenza Schouler AW15 | MODE+MAISON

And this delicate net arm-wear featured in John Galliano’s spring/summer 2016 show for Maison Margiela…

John Galliano for Maison Margiela SS16 | MODE+MAISON

Then on Monday, AF Vandevorst revealed this ‘underwear as outerwear’ inspired look at London Fashion Week..

AF Vandevorst AW16 | MODE+MAISON

And just yesterday, several fishnet inspired styles appeared on Marques Almeida’s London catwalk…

Marques Almeida AW16 | MODE+MAISON

Fishnets always look great when photographed in black and white, as the (typically) black net against bare skin provides a great element of contrast. So here are just a few of my favourite monochrome fishnet looks from my Pinterest feed…

The Hole Story | Fashion's fascination with the fishnet | MODE+MAISON

The Hole Story | Fashion's fascination with the fishnet | MODE+MAISON

The Hole Story | Fashion's fascination with the fishnet | MODE+MAISON

Image Credits: theyallhateus / vogue.com / Pinterest

Flowers & Cars

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Dublin-born designer Simone Rocha opened her first store on London’s Mount Street last year, and I was curious to find out the inspiration behind her latest fascinating shop front.

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Apparently, it was inspired by a project with photographer Jacob Lillis entitled ‘Flowers and Cars’, and then brought to life by Janina Pedan who created a 3D version for the window display.

But what started as a personal, observational project by the two creatives, soon began to influence the designer when she looked at the images, and in particular their contrasting elements, the manmade versus the organic.

‘Flowers & Cars’

I found it ironic that someone would buy something that was cut from the earth, then take it in the car home to your house.

Simone Rocha – Love magazine

Her spring/summer collection is therefore a reflection of contrasts – the contrasts of modern femininity – the designer combining her signature, sometimes overtly feminine aesthetic with tougher, bondage-like elements of straps and ties…

 

See Simone Rocha’s spring/summer 2016 collection here

Image Credits: i-D / Jacob Lillies / vogue.com

Chanel’s Shoemaker

Parisian shoemaker Massaro has been making handcrafted shoes for over 120 years. And while you may not be familiar with the company’s name, you will certainly be aware of their work – around 50 percent of the workshop’s production is for Chanel’s haute couture and Métiers d’Art shows.

In this short film, Massaro’s Managing Director talks about the importance of craftsmanship and gives an insight into the company’s relationship with the most famous of French fashion houses.

Source: Business of Fashion

 

LA Love

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Last week in Los Angeles, Hedi Slimane presented his latest menswear collection for Saint Laurent.  The Palladium concert hall on Sunset Boulevard played host to the designer’s autumn/winter 2016/17 show, which also featured a selection of new season looks from his women’s ready to wear line, to be unveiled in full in Paris next month.

It’s no secret that I’m a Saint Laurent fan, although I do always caveat any confession of love for a designer’s aesthetic with a need for their clothes to fit with my own. And while I still succumb to Hedi’s rock ‘n’ roll style, his latest homage to the 1970’s – think midi skirts and wide-legged culottes – is not for me…

However, what I did love about the City of Angels’ show was the designer’s menswear.  Hedi remained faithful to his signature skinny silhouette, which I’m always drawn to, but it was the jackets, and more particularly the detailing on the male models’ outerwear, that captured my attention.  Here a few of my favourites, on the catwalk and up close…

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Military Jacket

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Maquis De Sade Couture Jacket

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Imperial Couture Embroidered Coat

See all the looks from the Saint Laurent Los Angeles show here

Image Credits: gq.comvogue.com / @YSL

Runway to Reality

Margiela Shoes2

Maison Margiela Autumn/Winter 2015

Given the elaborate and sometimes fantastical styling typical of runway fashion, it’s often quite easy to miss the smaller details, including it seems the shoes…

These patent and perspex beauties recently popped up in my Instagram feed, styled simply with jeans, and I didn’t think I had seen them before.  However, after some fashionable detective work, I discovered that they were featured in John Galliano’s autumn/winter show for Maison Margiela.

Dressed down with denim, these super shoes come into their own.  And I subsequently spotted some similar restyling of Dior’s fabulous footwear.  These ankle-tied slingbacks first appeared on the catwalk at the French fashion house’s spring/summer show…

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Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2016

Less is indeed more…

Image Credits: vogue.com / @jesusandujar / theyallhateus